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Archive for January 26th, 2007

Peruvian Cuisine on the News… Again

 

Restaurant critic Eric Ruth’s review of Peruvian restaurant Manos Latinas is quite symptomatic of the recent history of Peruvian cuisine worldwide: pretty much ignored until a few years ago, its being discoverd and widely (or wildely) appreciated. The article’s title, published today by The News Journal-Delaware Online, is most meaningful: An introduction to Peruvian cuisine is love at first bite.

It is therefore with deep shame as a restaurant critic and a glutton -acknowledges Ruth- that I am forced to admit that “gourmet Peruvian food” has eluded my consciousness through each and every one of the 25-odd years that I have been researching, cooking and scavenging shamelessly for new reasons to stuff myself.

Notwithstanding its uncharming ambiance, restaurant Manos Latinas deserved two and a half stars (meaning “good to very good”) and the kind of enthusiastic words that usually come after a great meal. To more than a few die-hard food adventurers -says Ruth-, comfort-shy accommodations will be mitigated by the family feel and the high standards of the cuisine. Stick this place in a trendy spot in Wilmington, add a few adorable servers and squishy banquettes, and you would have one of the most stimulating, pleasing restaurants to hit the county in years.

Manos Latinas, 2304 Kirkwood Highway (Del. 2), Elsmere (eastbound lanes, near Del. 141). BYOB. 685-0774

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Peruvian Cuisine Stars in San Francisco

A very favourable article regarding Peruvian cuisine appeared today in the San Francisco Chronicle. Written by Bill Addison, it starts by suggesting, through a hands-on-experience way, a few reasons for the growing popularity of Peru’s gastronomy: “Ceviche, creamy chicken dishes, steak strips in gravy with french fries, cookies filled with caramel. Is it any wonder Peruvian cuisine has become increasingly popular in the past decade?“.

Addison then reviews some of the Peruvian restaurants in San Francisco and surroundings. The best according to him is Limon (524 Valencia St., near 16th Street, San Francisco; (415) 252-0918), which deserves three stars (out of four) and offers “excellent interpretations of Peruvian food, including a stellar ceviche, chicken nuggets and lomo saltado“. A two-and-a-half-star trio follows: Estampas Peruanas (715 El Camino Real, near Brewster Avenue, Redwood City; (650) 368-9340); Chola’s Restaurant (4375-G Clayton Road, near Treat Boulevard, Concord; (925) 680-0718); and Mochica (937 Harrison St., near Fifth Street, San Francisco; (415) 278-0480), which features a “sublime ceviche“.

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